FROM THE TOP OF HOWELL MOUNTAIN. Assistant Winemaker Kelly Wheat is always ready to pour samples of the Neal Family's delicious wines.

The charm of the Neal Family Vineyards begins with the journey up Howell Mountain out of Napa Valley. While traveling up the ever-winding Howell Mountain Road, you feel like you’re moving away from the hustle and bustle of the corporate-owned wine world to the simpler, purer path wine experience.

While pulling in to the new winery parking lot, we are immediately greeted by the family dogs who enjoy a good ear scratching about as much as digging in the newly-planted petunias.

The Neal Family Vineyards are carved out of a Howell Mountain Hillside on the family’s land outside of Angwin. The winery took three years to build and was completed in 2001. Owner Mark Neal’s wine-making dream is carved out of the family’s 40 years of vineyard management experience.

Inside the winery, assistant wine-maker Kelly Wheat guides us through the Neal Family philosophy. “Here we let the grape do the talking.” he said, “we let the flavours of the grape speak for themselves.”

So,  does that mean they leave it all up to Mother Nature and take what you get from the terroir? “Not at all,” insists Wheat. “Most people think terroir is simply the growing conditions and the sun, and the soil. Yeh, its the vineyard, buts its more.”

Terroir is more than the climate? “It’ people too,” he confides. “Terroir includes vineyard management…the training of the vines. Its the wine-making techniques and time in the barrel. All of these bring out the best in the wine.”

In a big way, this is what Kelly Wheat and wine-maker Gove Celio do in the vineyard. “Our job is to ‘capture’ the essence of the grapes in the bottle.” Wheat smiles.  For that reason, all of their 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cab. They also produce Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. No other varietals are added to any of their wines. They also use only the free run juice for their wines. The rest is pressed off and sold to other wineries.

FROM GRAPES TO GLASS. On just 15 acres of vines, the Richards Family produces some of the best Merlot in the world from the top of Spring Mountain.

Paloma Vineyard and Winery is located on a scant 15-acre parcel near the zenith of Spring Mountain just West of St. Helena. The vineyard was founded by Sheldon’s parents, Jim and Barbara back in 1983. They moved to Napa County from Texas back hoping to grow a few grapes. They turned their passion for grape growing into arguably the best Merlot made on the left coast today.

Up until 2000, the Sheldon’s sold most of their grapes to other wine-makers. However, they did hold a few clusters back to ferment some wine themselves. “My parents learned by doing, by trial and error,” says Sheldon,”and with the help of some of our neighbours.” The neighbours he is referring to are none other than the folks at the famous Pride Winery just down the road. “Jim Pride really taught us about wine making.” he says.

In 2000, the Richards built a winery.  And it didn’t take the family long to really get noticed. The 2001 Paloma Merlot scored a 95 in Wine Spectator Magazine and was voted 2003 Wine of the Year. “We were speechless.” admits Sheldon. “It was just our second vintage in the new winery!” The 2001 paloma merlot sold out in days.

So, how do you follow up on such a big, award winning wine? “Its all about the quality of the grape.” Sheldon says. “We don’t harvest by brix (sugar content). We harvest by taste. If  only this side of the row is ready, then that’s all we’ll pick.” This philosophy spreads the harvest out over 4 to 6 weeks each fall. But the system works. “We never pick any grapes that are not ripe.” he concludes.

JUST LIKE HOME. With no formal tasting room, Sheldon Richards of Paloma Vineyards pours us a glass of award-winning Merlot at his dining room table.

Their latest release, the 2006 Paloma Merlot garnered a 93-point score in Wine Spectator. A score probably good enough to get them back into the Wine Spectator Top 100 of the Year. So, when is their next Wine of the Year award coming? “Back in 2001, we had a stuck fermentation in one of the barrels.” Sheldon confides. ”The yeast just wouldn’t grow.” But, instead of  tossing that barrel out, the Richards’ coaxed it back to life over a period of several weeks. That barrel was added to the wine that ended up as the vaunted 2001 Merlot. ”We added that barrel in and the wine ended up winning Wine of the Year!”  

So what does that mean, Sheldon? “Well, for the first time since 2001, I have another stuck fermentation from the 2008 vintage. Maybe we’ll have another big year!”

In recent months, owner Jim Richards’ health has declined. Barbara now spends most of her time with Jim at the Hospital. “Dad strives to create a wine that can stand up to any wine, anywhere in the world.” A tear fills Sheldon’s eyes as he talks about his dad. “He is so proud of how far we’ve come.” 

Sheldon now runs the day to day vineyard and winery operations assuring that the Paloma legacy will live on. With the help of only one hired hand, he manages the vineyard, trims the vines, harvests the grapes and makes the wines. Mom, Barbara still keeps track of all the orders and receipts. “Once you’ve bought wine from us, we consider you part of the family.” Sheldon says, ”Mom and Dad have always insisted on that…and so do I!”  - Mark Johnson

TREFETHEN FAMILY VINEYARD Estate Dry Riesling 2007:  To find this cool-weather grape growing in the hot and dusty Napa Valley was unexpected. To find this terrific Riesling wine here was absolutely amazing. No, Trefethendoesn’t source this grape from chillier climates outside CA. In fact, every one of their wines is 100% estate grown. Truth is: the vineyards are located in the perfect spot to grow the grape. They lie in the Oak Knoll District on the southern edge of the valley bordering Carneros. These grapes, unlike other vines in the Napa AVA, benefit from cooling breezes and more-frequent fogs pushing north from the San Francisco Bay.  The result is a mouth-watering Riesling bursting with citrus, pear and floral notes on the nose.  The palate is coated with lively lemon, stone fruit and a firm acidity… followed by a lingering mineral finish.  A fine effort. Highly Recommended.

NEW HEIGHTS: Our host from Krupp Brothers Estates took us off the beaten path to the highest reaches of the renowned Stagecoach Vineyard to taste the wines. San Franscisco Bay can be seen 60 miles to the southwest.

KRUPP BROTHERS ESTATES Black Bart Marsanne 2006 Stagecoach Vineyard: Kudos to Jan Krupp for growing this rarer Rhone varietal.  We tasted this wine in the perfect setting: smack in the middle of the famous Stagecoach Vineyard near Atlas Peak, overlooking Napa Valley far below… the sun was shining, temperatures in the mid-70′s…spectacular view. Perfect conditions for perfect wine. The Krupp Brothers’06 Marsanne is a stand-out.  Thick almond & vanilla spice on the nose with waves of  lemon grass and flowers. The wine coats the palate evolving from citrus to peaches and cream followed by a firm slate finish. Highly Recommended!

Neal Family Vineyards & Winery is located on top of Howell Mountain in Napa County. Owner, Mark Neal, wants the wine grape to "speak for itself." Therefore, he doesn't blend other varietals into his wines.

NEAL FAMILY VINEYARDS 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley:The Neal Family has been in the wine business for  4 decades in Napa. That expertise shows in this wine, only their second offering of Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are allowed to ripen for an extra two weeks on the vine. They are then cold fermented and aged about 4 months on the skins…all of this in stainless steel. The result is an intensely aromatic wine that is light on its feet. Lots of  floral and pear on the nose. Bright lemon zest, honeydew and pineapple greet the palate. The finish is long and delicious. Refreshing without being innocuous. Highly Recommended.

CAKEBREAD CELLARS 2006 Chardonnay, Anderson Valley:   Talk about meticulous! These grapes were hand harvested at night to preserve freshness. While the wine was fermented in oak, only 30-percent of the barrels were new. That keeps the oak in the background and lets the fruit flavours shine through. Almost half of the wine is fermented on wild yeast, adding complexity. And finally, the butteriness is subdued since only a small portion of the wine is allowed to go through secondary, malolactic fermentation. The wine is just plain terrific with strong fruit character on the nose and palate, and a lush, silky smooth finish. Highly recommended. -Mark Johnson

ON TOP OF THE WORLD: Krupp Brothers produces some terrific wines from high atop Atlas Peak. The Black Bart Series and Veraison label wines are sourced from the famous family-owned Stage Coach Vineyard.

It was back in 1991, when Dr. Jan Krupp purchased 41 acres of what is now Krupp Vineyard on the rugged, scrub infested, rocky summit near the top of Atlas Peak. The successful physician and garden enthusiast had always wanted to grow grapes. “Folks thought I was crazy,” Krupp muses. “But this was the cheapest land in Napa Valley at the time.” And why wouldn’t folks think he was crazy? The spot was situated 2000 feet above Napa’s Stags leap District, seemingly light years away from the pristine, manicured vineyards of the Valley. This mountaintop land was solid rock. Its only inhabitants:  rattle snakes, dangerous scorpions and venomous spiders. And…oh…did I mention the Mountain Lions and Bear? Indeed, very few thought grapes could prosper in this environment. Several wineries looked and then passed on this same land weeks and months before.

But, Jan was determined to make his dreams of a vineyard come true. He sought the advice of trusted friends in the wine industry. “They recognized the incredible potential of this land to grow great wine grapes,” he said.  But the folks with the money did not. When another 750 acres came up for sale in 1995, investors balked. “They told me it would be too hard and I’d lose my money.” Enter Jan’s brother Bart Krupp. Together, the brothers raised enough funds to purchase the land, which would become Napa’s largest single vineyard, Stagecoach.

QUITE A VIEW: 600 acres of vines carved out of solid rock make grapes from Krupp Brothers Vineyards some of the most sought after fruit in the Napa Appellation. The Napa Valley is seen in the background.

Before the first grape was planted, however, much work had to be be done. Neighbours had to sign off permitting access to the future vineyard sites. To create the vineyards, the Krupp Brothers had to blast through and remove over 1 BILLION pounds of rock. No easy task.  Then there was the issue of water. “Where are you going to find a reliable water source on top of a mountain?!” Jan smiled. Geologists drilled for water in several spots but found nothing but more rock. “That’s when we hired the old-fashioned water witch.” he added. Within a few days, the divining rod found the spot. 400 feet down, the drill hit a flowing river with an steady and near endless supply of H2O! The result of all of this effort is now over 600 acres of premium vineyard land. The uneven, mountain top terrain supports several micro climates which allow Jan and Bart to plant 13 different grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Marsanne, Viognier, Tempranillo, & Sangiovese.

Vineyard & winery owner Jan Krupp (right) shows off his outstanding '06 Black Bart Marsanne to the author.

For Jan and Bart Krupp, wine making is more of a hobby. Though, the annual harvest yields enough fruit to  produce about 10-thousand cases of wine, most of the grapes are sold to more than 50 other vintners. You’ll find Krupps’ berries filling the bottles of cult wineries like Paul Hobbs and Miner Family.  Still, after tending to the vineyards, the brothers, along with wine-maker Nigel Kinsman still find time to make some delectable wines under the family-owned Krupp Brothers and Veraison labels.  From their big cab blend, “Joshua,” to the easy drinking Black Bart Marsanne, the wines are solid and silky smooth.  What was once thought by many to be pure folly, has become an amazing story of perseverance, fortitude, and success…one pound of rock at a time.   - Mark Johnson

This warehouse in Santa Rosa, formerly owned by Merry Edwards, is now home to the upstart Benovia Winery.

“Are you sure this is the right road.” I asked.
My wife Mary looked down at the of Sonoma County Street Map  in her lap.
“Yes, this should be the way to the winery.”
We had turned down a narrow road just outside of downtown Santa Rosa. The road was barely wide enough for my car to drive down. There were no signs to lead us to Benovia Winery…nothing to tell us we were about to taste some of the best Pinot Noirs being produced in California. Still, with only grape vineyards as far as the eye could see, we felt a strong sense that we were about to discover something truly special in the heart of Sonoma Wine Country. 

  “Glad you found us!” Bob Mosby, General Manager of Benovia, smiles as he greets us at the door of the winery. 
  As a front man, Mosby is perfect. He’s friendly and approachable. Plus, he’s a virtual wine encyclopedia. Once a practicing psychologist, Bob founded the Society for the Appreciation of Fine Wine back in 1990. He’s also worked the crush for various wineries every year since the late 1980s. To say Bob Mosby loves wine is an understatement.
  “We’re not well-known right now,” he says, “But, we are right on the doorstep of something big.”

Inside the winery, new oak barrels house the Benovia Pinot Noirs from an outstanding

 Benovia Winery is the brain child of savvy owners Joe Anderson and Mary Dewane. Both got their feet wet in the wine business back in the 90s when they purchased the renowned Cohn Vineyard bordering the Russian River Valley.
“After several years of tending the vineyard and selling the grapes from the Cohn,” says Anderson, “we decided to take the next logical step.”
   In 2005, the pair bought several acres of grapes from the Deloach Winery plus a storage building once used by Merry Edwards. Benovia Winery was born.
  The winery expects to produce about 23-hundred cases from the ’07 vintage. About 65-percent of the wine is Pinot Noir. The rest of the production is divided between Chardonnay and Zinfandel.
  “But great grapes aren’t enough.” cautions Mosby. “Every winery needs a great winemaker.”
 
 
The door to Benovia swings open. In rushes a young vintner from a nearby winery. Based on the worried look on his face, there’s obviously trouble in the barrel. The young winemaker needs some advice. 
  “That happens all the time,” says Bob Mosby. “They come to see Mike to ask him how to save their wine.”
  Mike is none other than winemaker Mike Sullivan, who was enticed over to Benovia from the Hartford Family Winery.
  “Mike has a vested interest in the company and a vested interest in making world-class wines here.” adds Mosby.
  Sullivan’s wine-making skills are well-known. Robert Parker calls him “brilliant” while making wines of “considerable character and individuality.”
  Sullivan spends much of his time out in the vineyards. “I’m just trying to make wines that are memorable and thought provoking.”
He also wants his wines to be “true to the site from which they come.”
  After about 45 minutes, the young wine maker emerges from his conference with Sullivan. He’s obviously relieved. From the look on his face, this year’s vintage will be saved…thanks to the expertise of one of the premier vintners in Sonoma County.
 
Bob Mosby and his crew spent the summer planting new vineyards right next to the winery. Production should expand in the coming years. So will the winery’s popularity.  Now’s the time to sign up for these delicious wines before there’s a waiting list. Sign up now before the secret gets out!